Jack — if I understand your questions correctly:

1. Fender traditionally designed Input 1 to be about 6 dB hotter than Input 2. This design came before active pickups were common, and the idea was to give players flexibility depending on the output level of their instrument — whether it was a guitar, bass, microphone, or even an accordion back in the day. A modern application would be to use Input 1 for a standard single-coil Fender-style guitar and Input 2 for a hotter humbucker-equipped instrument.
2. You can use an A/B box to switch between the two channels without any problem, but you can’t “jumper” the channels together like you can on old Tweed amps — doing so will cause an unpleasant out-of-phase sound.
3. Picking up radio signals occasionally is not unheard of and doesn’t necessarily indicate a defect in the amp.

Enjoy your Deluxe — it’s a great amp!

Try using a different instrument cable (i.e. from guitar to amp). Cables are basically giant antennas if they aren’t completely shielded, so it pays to use good quality cables.

I’ve got a couple of questions about my 2014 ’65 Reissue Deluxe Reverb: 1) The jack inputs on each channel are rated at 1M ohms for Input 1 and 136k ohms for Input 2 (I think) — what’s the advantage of this? Is it designed for active vs. passive pickups? 2) Can I use both channels at once with the “Y” output of an AB/Y pedal without damaging anything? 3) Lastly, does anyone else pick up radio stations through their Deluxe Reverb? I traded my ’68 Custom Vibrolux Reverb (plus some cash) for this one because I preferred the deeper reverb and earlier tube breakup compared to the cleaner tone and weaker reverb of the Vibrolux. But I immediately noticed radio interference once I set it up in the same rack space. I’ve tried running it through a Furman power conditioner and a Radial passive box with lift, phase, and ground loop switches — nothing helps. The interference only comes through when the effects (reverb and tremolo) are engaged. Any ideas? Thanks for your help, —Chris

I also forgot to mention that these amps are very brite! Alot of the Sf to Bf type of component changes can also help this amp alot. Change a few caps and a couple resistors and its right on tone! Even if ya dont want to go to such extent just simply cut the brite cap off the circuit board for an immediate reduction of that over the top shrill with some single coil pickups.

One of the nicer quality production circuit board amps.
I like the way they packaged it up to true vintage spec. with quality chassis and cabinet made of real birch (?) ply and not pressed board mdf junk. The polarity reverse switch cracks me up? I suppose you could use that spot to wire in a midrange pot to the bandstack or a mv or something.
The iron in these are kinda weak but they do have a little extra voltage on pwr xfrm. I like it with a different rectifier tube to bring the b+ down and also a little sag.
I tried 6L6’s and the added current draw knocked down the voltage quite a bit even with a GZ34 recto the voltage dropped about 30V on the plate. Even with the drop the amp still had a greater amount of power but better sag and compression from the big swings of voltage drop when hitting it hard. Sounded great but running too hot with heat being generated from both trannys. The amp needed reliability over tone in this instance and changed back to JJ 6v6 and a 12ax7 in the PI .
I definately want to build a 764 deluxe type circuit of my own, with a tag board, premium components, NOS 6L6 and some decent heavy iron onboard like some mercury magnetics. Now, where are those old beater messed up silverfaced twins or basketcased reissues for cheap? Need that craigslist special to gut!