FENDER 75

FENDER 75

1980-1982 

Configuration: Head, 1x12 Combo, 1x15 Combo
Power: Low: 15 Watts, High: 75 Watts
Effects: Reverb

SCHEMATIC

LAYOUT

  • Front Panel: Bright Switch, Volume (clean), Treble w/ Pull-Knob Boost, Middle w/ Pull-Knob Boost, Bass w/ Pull-Knob Boost, Lead Drive, Reverb, Lead Level, Master Volume, Standby Switch, Hi/Low Power Switch, Power Switch
  • Back Panel: AC Outlet, Ground Switch, Speaker Jack, External Speaker Jack, Line Out, Effects In/Out, Output Tubes Matching, Pedal Red Jack, Pedal Plain Jack, Reverb Out, Reverb In, Hum Balance Adjust

CABINET 

SPEAKERS 

  • Size: 1x12, 1x15, 4x10, 2x12
  • Impedance: 8 ohms
  • Model: Electro Voice and Blue Label Fender (Eminence)

 TUBES

  • Pre amp: 3x 12AX7 2x 12AT7
  • Power: 2 x 6L6GC
  • Bias: Fixed
  • Rectifier: Solid State
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76 comments

Richard- I just bought one of the Fender 75 head only models from GC Langhorne for $150. They thought it was screwed because when using reverb at all they got the loud buzzing sound. I cleaned the oxide off the RCA conns on the spring unit and it now sounds great, no buzz at all. But the lead master has no effect at all when turned. Is this shot or do I need to plug in two instruments for this feature to work? Or do you need the foot switch to work this feature? I just got it and have not tried these since cleaning it up. Its cosmetically great though. Thinking about getting a Celestion G12 75w 8 ohm single cabinet for it but maybe I should get a dual cabinet because it really barks and it may blow out a single. What do you think?

Rick Gafgen,

To whom it may concern, Hi all i have the head 75version, its a great amp but like so many i have been less happy with the lead channel especially as it was suppose to compete with Mesa. Well i have found a non evasive work around thet you may want to try if you desire a switchable screaming lead tone. Replace the V3 and v5 with the best 12ax7/ecc83 you can afford and find ( i use Valvo’s) disconnect your reverb out/in and place a single lead to bridge and bypass the spring reverb in your combo or head. Now for the good part switch the amp on and use the reverb control to dial in whatever amount of gain you need to my ears it sound great. if you dont like it reverse the procedure and you ve lost nothing. You can still utilise the effect sen/return for an analog reverb panel or even a fender reverb unit if you can afford it. alternatively you could A/B box the reverb in out and still have the extra gain for lead at a tap of the foot.footnote for those hardnosed Fender fans,….Carlos santana appearantly is quoted regarding Mesa engineering when he tried a souped up Fender princeton as ” hey man this amp boogies” hence the name of the company that follod, just remember that amp was a Fender!!! designed by Ed Jahns who worked for NASA before he joined Fender, blessed be he,….he ‘s left some great amps behind. p.s KT66 tubes are just a drop in affair and compress/tidy up the massive gain achieved, dont forget to tweak the little pot meter at the back for output balancing, just listen for hum with no volume and fix at quietest point. happy play & practice

Richard Schickendantz,

This was pre-Rivera. Paul thought of it as a Boogie copy and hated that Fender was following, not leading. I used (and fried) a pre-production model, bought 2 in 1980 and have one still.

Ben,

Your listed dimensions of cabs are not consistent between head and combo cabs as to what is length x width x height. If the chassis is the same in all, then the width of all should be the same. Only the depth and height would change. According to my 1980 75 combo with the 15″, the width is 22 1/4. My other head only 75 is also 22 1/4.

Dgd,

Thanks! My 75 is now covered in black leather (real leather)

Chris,

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